CnR Epperson

Hella FF50 Auxillary Lights

The first mod/farkle I added to the FJR was the FZ-1 mirrors and love the visibility they give me. And I wanted to install auxillary lights to project more light when riding at night and to be more visible during the day. I decided to use the Hella FF50s and Garauld's (fjrforum.com) brackets to mount them.

The FJR's mirrors are attached to the nose frame with metal bushings and rubber gromment which keeps the mirror base off the plastic front fairing. Garauld's brackets are made to be sandwitched between the mirror base and the top of the bushings and are 1/8" thick. On my '07, the studs of the FZ-1 mirrors just come through the metal nose frame enough to screw on the nut with a good dose of "lock tight" - 1 turn shy of the stud being flush with the top of the nut.

The FZ-1 mirror studs are shorter than the stock FJR ones and adding the brackets keeps studs to come through the nose frame. Fortunately Sirryan (fjrforum.com) wrote about the modifications he made to get the FZ-1's mirror base and to the FJR's bushing. So I copied his technique and the following are pictures of the modifications.

I also used John Dumke's thread for ideas for wiring a switch for "always on" and "on with high beams" and the location of the Hella Relay

Before, part way and installed

BeforeBracket installedLight installed

The pieces modified

Measuring the height of the FZ-1 miror lands off the bottom of the base. The height is 3/32".Measuring the height off the fairing bushings off the fairing and rubber insert.Looking down at the bushings and rubber grommet which holds them in place

The drawing is not to scale. I filed the FZ-1 mirror lands around the studs to be flush with the outer portion of the base which puts the entire base of the mirror in contact with the brackets. This gave me 3/32". I removed the FJR bushings and removed approximately 2/32" of their height. This gives an "effective stud" length of 5/32". Minimally, I wanted the mirror stud nuts to be on the same number of turns as before attaching Garauld's bracket. With these mods, the stud is now flush with the top of the nuts.

Not to scale

Upper left - the lands are 3/32" beyond the bottom of the base

Upper right - the brackets are 4/32" (1/8") thin

Lower left - the bushing is approximately 12/32 long and extends approximately 1/8" out of the rubber gasket.

The fairing bushings

Here are the bushings and grommet from one side.I had a piece of wood which was the same thickness as the height between the top of the collar and the end of the bushing that I wanted. I used it as a stop for filing.Here's one filed down.This is the backside of the grommet. It has a "bump" on each of the tabs which goes through the nose frame.
I cut them off as I was not able to work them in their holes and get the grommet and bushings back between the fairing and nose frame.

Mounted

The outline for a 1/16" rubber pad between the fairing and Garauld's bracket.Sandwitched between the mirror base and fairing is Garauld's bracket and a 1/16" rubber pad.Looking down - on the front edge of the bracket approximately 3/4" from the bend and 1/4" from the front edge, I drilled and 1/8" hole and put a tie-wrap through it, around the wires to the FF50, and over the front edge. This holds the wiring in place as it comes from the FF50 and through the fairing's air vents.

Feeding the Hella wires

The "gold" wire is an old cloths hanger which I "fished" through the nose cone to pull the Hella power wires to the other side.The "other" side.And the wires are though.Hella relay located between the radiator fill and "glovebox". The picture "borrowed" from John Dumke's thread

Switch and power wire

The power for the Hella FF50s come from the power distribution panel in the tail.

Left side cover.The bottom side showing the cover's filler will fills the hole for Yamaha's grip heater control.A two switchs' bezel is just slight larger than the grip heater's opening. I positioned the bezel to the difference was on 2 of the 4 side, traced the outline, and trimmed the difference with a sharp utility knife.Switch and cover in place.
Side profileThe switch is not quite as visible as one might like as I have a riser plate which moves the handlebar back some.

A - FJR's high beam trigger

C - to the driving light relay.

D - ground for indicator light
E - 12VDC - always on position
G - 12 VDC power to indicator light