CnR Epperson

Audiovox CCS-100 on a '07 VStar 1300

SAFETY WARNING:This modification, if improperly done, can could be life-threatening. You're are working with close mechanical tolerances and connecting an automatic cruise control in parallel with the manual throttle. If you are not careful with this installation, the throttle might bind leaving the throttle stuck open or closed, or could cause an abrupt inadventant throttle opening or close resulting in a crash and/or injuries

Installing a cruise control on a motorcycle is a risky business and mistakes made during the installation or while using the cruise control can kill you. I take no responsibilityfor you or your installation should you decide to install a cruise control on your own or someone elses motorcycle. You do so at your own risk.

Click here to see the Audiovox CCS-100, control pad water-resisting, brake relay, and vacuum parts.

'07 VStar 1300 installation

I regularly read the Delphi VStar 1300 Rider's Forum and saw a posting by Zippo planning an install his 1300. I had been thinking about trying to install the Audiovox on my wife's VStar 1300. I had planned doing the FJR first since it is well documented but then.... Zippo and I starting exchanging information, ideas, and "what iff's" which resulted in my installing it on the VStar 1300 first!!!! Zippowas an invaluable source of info as we collaborated via cell phone, email and the forum. Thanks, Zippo! Here's his install

The difference between the our two installations is I attached the servo's cable directly to throttle bodies' throttle cable mount which does not require modification to the stock airbox. Zippo's requires changes to the stock air box to provide clearance for the servo cable. Mine requires "manufacturing" two parts:

  1. A bracket that attaches to the manual throttle cable bracket and holds the servo cable in-line and directly below the manual throttle advance cable,
  2. A clipwhich captures the servo cable's ball end in a "build-in" notch between the manual throttle's two cable ends (advance and return).

There is an abundant lack of space :

  1. Between between the throttle bodies and cylinders but fortunately there is just enough!! And there just enough
  2. Length between the end of the servo's pull cable and sheath end (with some modification) to attach directly to the crank.

Heading for the throttle bodies

The tank is off

The result

My objective was to connect the servo cable directly to the bell crank with the cable in-line with the existing cables without interference and provide full throttle range.

The servo cable does not retracted when the manual throttle is advanced. This results in slack hanging down. The sheath end has to be shortened to provide additional clearance. This results in a possibility that the slack could get caught under the throttle plate stop flange - bad news as the throttle would be stuck approximately 1/2 WT. Gotta solve that one!

We don't have the same problem when the servo advances the throttle because the manual throttle return cable is rotating in the same direction as the pull which keeps manual advance cable snug (or at least as snug as it is adjusted).

I spend about a day cutting 24 gauge sheet metal into candidate brackets to check clearances from the existing cables, and the cylinders. Once I got one that looked "right", I made the prototype (and one currently in use) out of 1/8" x 1" aluminum stock from Orchard Supply Hardware.

The bracket is held in place with a bolt through it and the existing throttle bracket, and the tangs which capture the nuts for the manual throttle cables. The baseline for the bracket is where it touches these tangs. That keeps the servo cable in line with the existing cables. It is mounted on the bottom side of the bracket

These are the patterns for the clip and bracket. The clip for the bell crank was made from 22 guage steel. The bracket for the servo cable end was made from 1/8" alumimum.
This is the "finished" bracket with the bolt which attaches it in place.
This is the underside view
The top side with the cutting pattern tape still in place.
No it is not gold.! Since this picture was taken, the end of the bracket (left end) has been shortened to just beyond the tang of the throttle bracket.
This is the top view and the Vee in the throttle bracket is very apparent.

Throttle bell crank clip

The servo cable has a ball end. There is an gap between the manual throttle's cable ends in the bell crank with a built-in notch. This clip was made out of 22 gauge steel and traps the servo cable on the bell crank. At some point, I am going to see if I can find some banding steel (which is spring steel ) of the correct width and see if I can make one for it.

I will draw an approximate pattern and post it soon.

This is the cutting pattern transferred to blue painter's tape.This is the rough out before I straightened it and then bend it....Here is the top view of the clip after it is bent into shape.Here is the side view.

There is a 1/4" space between the barrel cable ends used to attached the manual throttle to the bell crank. One half of the crank is just a flat circular piece of metal. The other half which helps form the shape of the pulley is shaped just "right" to hold the end of the servo pull cable's ball end. The throttle bell crank clip captures the cable end while allowing it to rotate as the throttle is rotated.

It turns out that there is just enough length of servo cable to got between the bracket and this point on the bell crank with some slack left for adjustment - not much but sufficient. You need to carefully adjust the angle of the bracket to make sure you have slack while maintaining a straight line to the bottom of the crank so the cable does not cut into the sheath end.

My thumb is holding the ball end of the servo cable into the existing notch in the bell crank between the barrel end attachments for the throttle cables.
Sorry that the picture is blurring. With the ball in place, I swiveled it back and forth while holding it in the notch. The "marked" where the radius of the ball touchs the other side of the crank. I then used a sharp 1/8" drill to drill a pocket into the crank (not through). There is a hole in the servo clip also. These two pockets hold the ball cable in place and allows the ball to rotate as the throttle is opened and closed.
Again the servo cable clipped to the bell crank.

A top down view.

The clip is "tight" to the right side of the crank being held there by its end which is under the nut and washer that holds the bell crank to the throttle shaft. The bent end of the clip is on the left side of the crank which pulls the right side towards the left.

The left side of the clip (in this picture) must extend beyond the bell crank and bend back to the bell crank to apply pressure. If you don't, it will not be tight enough to trap the ball end.

Shortening the servo sheath

The servo's adjustment end of the sheath is too long and has to be shortened to provide clearance for cable slack when the manual throttle is advanced. I cut approximately 5/8" off. I mounted the end in a vise and used a hacksaw blade in my fingers (not in the frame, so I could feel and not apply too much pressure) and carefully cut through the sheath at each thread. I was carefully to just go through sheath and not hit the cable in the center. Once all the threads werecut through, I carefully went completely around the last one thread so the piece to be removed was free. I used wire cutters to carefully remove the remaining material between the cuts in the thread lines which allowed the cable to come free.

Now it is time to put things back together. The servo is mounted on the left side of the bike and its cable end is on the right.

  1. The servo cable comes out of the left side cover, goes to the open area between the rear cylinder and the "under seat area", back to the front along the left side of the backbone, where it turns between the cylinders to the right side going between the bottom of the backbone and the vacuum and water cooler lines. Audiovox says the minimum turning radius for the cable is 4". Where it exits the side cover, it is less but it pulls easily. So be careful taking the cover off and on.
  2. Do not attach the manual throttle cables yet, you will needed the space.
  3. Attach the servo cable to its bracket leaving the nuts loose so you can slide the bracket and cable up and under the manual throttle bracket. Once in place, bolt the two brackets together.
  4. Connect the manual throttle cables and adjust them.
  5. Connect the servo cable to the bell crank
  6. Open and release the manual throttle to make sure the return springs close the throttle
  7. Open and close the manual throttle to make sure manual and servo pull cables move freely and clear of each other. And that the servo cable is blocked from getting caught by the idle stop set.
Finally, the assembly is back in place.
You can see the servo cable coming in from the bottom.
You can see the slack in the servo cable with the manual throttle wide open.

Vacuum system

connection between the combined line and the servo and it came a part - strange the servo didn't work. LOL

The two white cylinders in the center of the picture are the two check values. Then the Y which combines them into a single line. Just to their left is the vacuum line which goes to the reservoir. The three lines connecting the servo are connected togther using a 3/16" x 1/8" x 3/16" Tee. The 2 3/16" go to the servo and reservoir and teh 1/8" to the combined line from the vacuum ports.
This is the vacuum reservoir made from 1-1/2" ABS cut 9" long with 2 ABS end caps and 3/16" brass barb. The reservoir is "tie-wrapped to the left down tube. The vacuum line goes between the frame and the radiator top and follows the side of the backbone to the servo.

The reservoir is approximately 16 cubic inches.

Servo location

Audiovox bracket can be switched around, which I believe I had to do to get the orientation of the vacuum and electrial connectors pointed toward the engine and the holes for mounting to the cover located towards the front of the bike.

The servo will not fit going out the top side!
There's where I'm going the cut notch in the bottom apex so the servo will lie fush against the inside of the cover.
The servo is in place with the cable exiting the bottom.

You can see the two wiring harnesses and connectors just even with the side cover's top bracket. The right is for the coil, power, ground and brake leads. The left is power, ground and three control leads.

Since the picture was taken, I used "self bonding" electrical table wrap the "pig tail" going the servo and cover their ends of the two connectors.

Everything in place.


The Audiovox has one connector that has its power, ground, tach signal, and three control leads. I split the leads into two groups:

  1. Group 1 - power, ground, tach signal and brake signal
  2. Group 2 - power, ground, and 3 control leads

I used two Molex connectors to connect them to the leads going to the servo. This allows me to disconnect the servo without pulling the wiring too. Group 1's power and ground is attached to the tail light power and ground. Group 2 has all the wiresgoing to the handle bar control pad. Personal choice (I hate ground loops), so I chose to run power and ground from the same source to both the servo and the control pad. So on the servo side of the two Molex connectors, I jumper power and ground from Group 1 into Group 2

The contro pad has six wires power (red), ground (black) , grey (LED power) and the three control wires. I spliced the red and grey leads togther close to control pad. This powers the back light (LEDs) for the on/off and set/resume buttons

The servo is in place. The white in the center of the servo is the vacuum port. The two pig tails are coming from the back of the servo. The "long" red section is the tach signal noise suppressor.
There is the "under seat" mess. On the upper right side is an AmpliRider and its volume control. Across the bottom is the Audiocom and its wires. On the left is the power connections and the brake relay. The blue connectors are Posi-Taps. The two wires on the left are: 1) green - the brake signal and 2) red - running light which supplies power the the Audiovox, Audiocom and AmpliRider.
This is the top of the two spark plug coils mount on the left side about the middle of the backbone. I have cut off the covering off the top wire (which is the negative side of the coil).
Here is the Posi-Tap clamped to the wire providing the tach signal to the Audiovox.
The control pad is mount to an MP3 player mount I built. After I cut the control pad leads to "over length", I covered them with 3/8" heat srink and the routed the cable down the handlebar and along the backbone to the servo

These are the dip switch settings which I found worked best for this setup:

I rode the bike over a 35 mile course trying difference settings for Switches 1&2 and Switches 3&4.

We've put on about 500 miles since installing and it works great!