CnR Epperson

Audiovox CCS-100 on a '07 FJR 1300/A

SAFETY WARNING:This modification, if improperly done, can could be life-threatening. You're are working with close mechanical tolerances and connecting an automatic cruise control in parallel with the manual throttle. If you are not careful with this installation, the throttle might bind leaving the throttle stuck open or closed, or could cause an abrupt inadventant throttle opening or close resulting in a crash and/or injuries

Installing a cruise control on a motorcycle is a risky business and mistakes made during the installation or while using the cruise control can kill you. I take no responsibilityfor you or your installation should you decide to install a cruise control on your own or someone elses motorcycle. You do so at your own risk.

Click here to see the Audiovox CCS-100, control pad water-resisting, brake relay, and vacuum parts.

While investigating the purchase of a FJR in April '08, I read numerous posts on the FJRforum.com and other forums about installing the Audiovox on on various years. It became a "to be done" farkle; but riding comes first. Just as I was getting ready to install the Audiovox, I read on Delphi VStar 1300 Rider's Forum that a member was getting an Audiovox for his VStar 1300. So he and I worked together (via the forum, email and phone)to install one on our VStar 1300.

There is a "ton" of info available on the FJRforum.com. This is my story and I'm sticking to it!

Removing the "fuel rail"

To attached the servo's cable to the throttle bell crank and getting vacuum to drive the serveo requires removing the fuel tank, T-bar and heat shield. FJRCarShopGuy provides some great pictures of getting under the tank and his connection. I'd been into the engine top to run audio and auxillary power but never dealt with the "fuel rail" / "injector rail" - the fear of the un-tried! SoI add these pictures to the collection to help others to get "past the fear".

The throttle bell crank is "buried" below the fuel rail and between the intake tubes. Some folks claim they can drill the throttle stop tang and attached the bolt and chain to attach the servo cable to it without removing the fuel rail. They either have very small hands, long fingers or very patient - not me. So the fuel rail came off. You must disconnect a "bunch" of connections before the "fuel rail" can be removed - air hoses, electrical, and idle.

Let the funbegin:

On the right side of the fuel rail, you will find three plugs to be disconnected and the idle adjustment cable.

Note: this was taken after I installed Audiovox so you see the new vacuum lines in the top center and to the right is my auxillary power running to the rear

Here is the end of the idle adjust cable. It is located on the right side between the fairing and engine, and below the frame. It just snaps into a tang.
This is FJRCarShopGuy removing the one of the air injector air lines.
This is FJRCarShopGuy removing the air injector assembly.
This is FJRCarShopGuy removing the MAP sensor.

The control lines to the fuel injectors are removed and all the wiring and air hoses are out of the way. The two screwdrivers are showing where the bolts are that hold the fuel rail to the intake. At this point, you should blow off the top of the intake mainfold as there will be about of dirt, gravel, and etc around the injectors which you don't want to get into the manifold.

Note - taken after the new vacuum connections are added.

After I loosened the mounting bolts and before removing them, I disconnected the four vacuum lines between each intake and the fuel rail.

Before removing the bolts, I clipped a couple of vise-grips to the standoffs between the fuel rail and intake. If you don't they might fall and you might have to remove tupper-ware to get them back. The "orange" bodies are the injectors which sit in washers in the intake manifold.

You can slide the standoffs out without moving the fuel rail so you can concentrate on the next step.

On it is time to pull the injectors out of the intakes. Gentlely lift the rail on both ends to wiggle the injectors out of washers between them and the intake manifold.

In this picture, you can see the rubber washers stayed in the intake manifold. Depending on where they stick, either the end of the injector or intake manifold, keep your eyes open as you don't want to go "fishing" if they drop.

I have put blue painter's tape over each injector port to make sure "bad" stuff doesn't go where it always wants to go! I left the washers in the manifold so I knew where they were.
Here is the fuel rail and injectors, standoffs, and mounting bolts set in a save place.
Be very careful with the ends of the injectors. You don't want to hit them or get dirt in the ends or you get to visit your favorite shop.

Connecting the "ball chain" to the throttle tang

Much easier to drill a hole in tang with the rail out of the way!!!

I have a throttle lock on the grip so I engaged it to hold the throttle open so the tang is up and accessible. I used a spring loaded center punch to mark the center of tang and drilled an 1/8" diameter hole through the tang. Be careful, if you push too hard you could bend the tang and/or when the drill breaks through, it could do some nasty damage.

To the left and below the tang partially hidden by the meshed hose, you can a bolt. This bolt keeps the throttle plates from over rotating and damaging them the engine. The tang rests on this bolt .... so....... when you attached your bolt to the tang, make sure the nut holding the bolt firmly to the tang is not below the edge of the tang. If it does, the throttle will be held open.... not good.....

Putting under the tank back together

Remember, the ends of each injector needs to go through their appropriate washer in the intake manifold. I put a very light wipe of 2 cycle motor oil on the inside lip of each washer so the injector would more easily side in. Carefully align the injector ends in the centers of the washer and gentiley push them uniformly into the washers. If you crush or damage a washer, you'll get an air leak and it will not run right.

The wiring and vacuum plumbing

Here's everything back together. Please note:

  • In the center, you can see the throttle (manual and servio) cables. The servio's cable come from the seat along the left side to the front of the engine, under the cooling pipe and connects to the manual throttle cable's return line.
  • I added a 3/16" air hose over the end of the servio's sheath end (before hooking the end to the ball chain). It extends about 3/4" beyond the metal end of the sheath which will take off some of the strain.
  • I attached 3/16" vacuum hose to each intake and then to a vacuum check valve. Each was then connected to each other using three Y's - #1 to #3 and #2 to #4 and then those two into one line.
  • The combined vacuum loops along the right side to the under seat area.
  • The control pad wiring comes from the front of the engine along the auxilary power and vacuum line to the seat
Here is the vacuum and control wiring attached to the ABS brake lines and enter the under seat pan through a slot I cut in the side.

I read about a bunch of different places to put the servo. While I didn't really want to lose the underseat space, I really wanted it where I could get to it and where it would be relatively cool - so under the seat. Since we regularly go from sea level to 10,000', a vacuum reservoir was in store - so under the sea. I considered putting it just under the pan but decided I wasn't really into cutting that much plastic. However, I did move my auxillary power relay there.

I wanted to be able to "easily" re-route wiring if I should change my mind - I love Molex connectors.... Power, ground and the brake override come from the back to a connector which connects into a connector to the servo. The power and ground is looped to a connector which connects to the connector for the wires coming from the control pad. The control pad brown, green and yellow connect through a connector into the lead going to the servo.

The vacuum from the engine goes to a Y which connects it to the reservoir and the the servo. The reservior is a 2" ABS plastic 6-1/2" long with a brass 3/16" barb connector. The reservoir is 20 cubic inches.

This is under the passenger seat. Just to the left of the Autocom, is the brake relay.

This area is going to get "re-wired" shortly....

Control pad mount

There is the control pad mount. I made a bracket out of 3/16" ABS flat stock and used a 1/4" and 7/8" spaces and longer bolts to attach it to the switch box. I will be adding a layout for the bracket.

The "thing" on the Ram mount to the right isa mount I made to hold my MP3 player and volume control for the AmpliRider. I love my AmpliRider....

Here's a side view.
This is the template for a mount I made for the control pad that attaches to the front side of the clutch switch box. The upper portion needs to be sized to the component you're mounting. I used 3/16" ABS plastic and bent it using a hair drier and a bench mounted vise.

I got nylon stand off which used as spacers so this mount just cleared the curvature of the clutch box.