CnR Epperson

Audiovox CCS-100 on a '07 VStar 1300 and '07 FJR 1300A

SAFETY WARNING:This modification, if improperly done, can could be life-threatening. You're are working with close mechanical tolerances and connecting an automatic cruise control in parallel with the manual throttle. If you are not careful with this installation, the throttle might bind leaving the throttle stuck open or closed, or could cause an abrupt inadventant throttle opening or closing resulting in a crash and/or injuries

Installing a cruise control on a motorcycle is a risky business and mistakes made during the installation or while using the cruise control can kill you. I take no responsibilityfor you or your installation should you decide to install a cruise control on your own or someone elses motorcycle. You do so at your own risk.

Audiovox Corporation builds a vacuum actuated cruise control system which was designed as an add-on for cars. Numerous people have adapted it for use on a variety of motorcycles. It is well document on the fjrforum.comfor the FJR but none on the Yamaha VStar 1300.

These are NOT "how to do it" pages; but how I did it.

Before I purchased the FJR in April '08, I had read most of posts on the and other FJR forums to learn more about my potiental purchase. I found numerous threads about installation of the Audiovox on the FJR. I was getting ready for some winter projects (as if San Francisco has a "real" winter) and purchased an Audiovox CCS-100. Has luck would have it, we had a "nasty" winter and I spent all available time riding the FJR and not working on it. Again

I got diverted in April '09 by a post from an VStar 1300 Riders forum member who was waiting for his Audiovox to put his VStar. So the VStar gets done first!!!! (Gotta keep the wife happy!!)..

'07 VStar 1300 installation

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'07 FJR 1300/A installation

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What's in the box

The boxA bunch of parts, most of which are not used

Since the CCS100 was packaged for cars, the majority of the parts are not used. The parts used are:

VStar 1300


Servo, control pad, and wire harness

Servo, control pad, wire harness, ball chain, ball chain to cable end attachement, ball chain to bolt attachment

The "guts"

"Ionbeam" from the "donated" these pictures.

There is approximately 2" of cable movement provided by vacuum chamber which is between the diaphram attached to the cable and the end of the spring to the right. When the servo "adds" vacuum, the diaphram moves to the right pulling on the cable. When the servo "exhausts" vacuum, the spring pushes the cable thus releasing the throttle

Do not do this unless you want to puchase a new one!

Water-resisting the control pad

The control pad is not water-proofed in any sense of the word. I used a "clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant" to seal the back of the housing where the wires exit and the joint between the two halves of the case. Even so, don't spray the pad with a garden hose.

The control pad's case is held together by two tabs one on each side. They can be release by gently spreading the case halves a part with a small blade screwdriver.
With the two halves a part, make sure you note the orientation of the rubber/silicone boot in the left half. It is very easy to put it back wrong if it falls out!!
Here is the backside of the PCB and the wires exiting the case.
They put some silicone but it does not completely seal the joint between the wires, PCB and case. Fill it.....
A bead of silicone is put around the PCB and case half which fits into the read half.

Wire harness and back of servo

This is the plug which connects to the back of the servo
Two wires can be removed which are not used in this application. There are two black wires near the top and a grey one near the bottom. One of the black wires is formed into a "cable" with the grey one. Cut it and the grey wire off. Make sure of there are no wire ends exposed as they might interfer with the servo's operation if they touch ground or power.
The wires removed.
The plug connected to the servo. Sorry it is out of focus. In the top center, you can see the dip switches which set the operation. These settings are different for the VStar and FJR

Brake Relay

The brake circuit on the VStar and FJR (yellow wire) is "something about 0VDC" and goes to +12VDC when the brake is pressed. However if LED brake lights or other LED "lights" are added to the circuit, ground might not be ground as far as the Audiovox is concerned. The Audiovox will NOT engage if it does not have a "solid" ground. There are two different approaches to solve this problem. The first is a relay and the second uses a resistor and diode. I chose to use a rely for both bikes I can not vouch if the resistor/diode method works. It was sent to me and I have included it as an alterntive only

Vacuum parts

The Audiovox vacuum to pull its cable and advance the throttle's position or releasing vacuum to relax the throttle's position. The source of vacuum is from the vacuum ports on the throttle bodies. The spec's for both the FJR and VStar 1300 have this to be a nominal 250mm Hg (slightly less than 10" Hg). The Audiovox will work with approximately 6". On the, there is a variety of opinions how many vacuum connections to the engine are needed and the need for a vacuum reservoir.

I used the following parts of the appropriate size:

check values Ys